Comments on: Heat Pump Basics https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/ Building science knowledge, HVAC design, & fun Tue, 23 Jan 2024 09:16:31 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.2 By: Charles rowan https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36963 Tue, 23 Jan 2024 09:16:31 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36963 In reply to Cindi.

Good advice. Some people in hvac are not well trained,especially in the south .

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By: Charles rowan https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36962 Tue, 23 Jan 2024 09:14:28 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36962 In reply to Paul Szymkiewicz.

Most contractors don’t consider location of heat pump.A lot of times they put the heat pump is a place that gets direct sun for most of the day. They leave the job and the customer pays a elevated bill going forward.

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By: Charles rowan https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36961 Tue, 23 Jan 2024 09:09:39 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36961 In reply to Roy Collver.

Yes heat does not change .Heat just moves to a new location. From where you don’t want it to a new location where you want it.

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By: Charles rowan https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36960 Tue, 23 Jan 2024 09:05:44 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36960 In reply to David.

A lot to read through. Seems you did your home work. It’s tough to get a good contractor. You do not need a phd to do this type of work. Basic education and havoc school is fine. Many people over think hvac it’s not rocket science.

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By: Cindi https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36826 Wed, 17 Jan 2024 01:10:47 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36826 In reply to Butch Whitehouse.

https://gegcalculators.com/heat-pump-lockout-temperature-calculator/

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By: Cindi https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36825 Wed, 17 Jan 2024 01:09:30 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36825 In reply to Curt.

That’s apparently what happened with mine. They didn’t follow the specs for distance from wall and ceiling, and now the units stop running way before the set temp because we are recirculating the cold air from the units back into the coils. Moral of the story is do not trust people who say they understand the system they are installing unless you talk to other people who have the same system installed by them in the same climate and configuration.

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By: cindi https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36819 Tue, 16 Jan 2024 20:05:58 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36819 Those 2 condensors in the photo are quite close together. Is that only okay because you’re in a warm climate? My 2 in a cold climate are wall mounted but not operating right because they are too close together.

Also the last post mentioned a hot attic… We realized the top of our 10′ ceilings are about 15 degrees warmer than the bottom. Do reversing ceiling fans really help that problem?

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By: Butch Whitehouse https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36796 Sun, 14 Jan 2024 16:10:41 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36796 Came back here as I’ve been trying to find good information on where to set my heat pump lock out point at its most economical setting. I’d love a link to a simple calculator that would help me figure this out. My HVAC installer seems to be a “rule of thumb” kind of thumb thinker. I found the lock out set point at 45 degree’s and reset it to 25. I’m pretty sure my equipment is sized to the heat load as we had a professional manual j done to size out the equipment (thank Allison). My calculations show that my cost per therm of heat is 2x when we use our oil fired boiler to provide auxillary heat given the current cost of oil vs electricity but I’m not positive that my cost per therm with the heat pump is calculated accurately.
I’ve also started monitoring the temp of the conditioned attic all the utilities are located in and have found it about 15 degree higher than the living space below. I have not seen any article on regulating temps in conditioned attics an am curious what others experience……. Thinking about installing winter time “return ducts” in the attic space but need to do more research. Rafters are insulated to roof peak, no insulation installed in ceiling of the living space (may have been a mistake?)

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By: anonymous mail https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36473 Mon, 25 Dec 2023 13:33:00 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36473 I do not even understand how I ended up here, but I assumed this publish used to be great

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By: Fred Bacher https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/heat-pump-basics/#comment-36218 Tue, 12 Dec 2023 15:35:23 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=8710#comment-36218 In reply to RoyC.

Yes I can speak to that because like many trac homes, I am about 10 feet from my neighbor. They replaced a very noisy single stage AC with a Carrier Heat pump. It’s the syle with two large horizontal fans. Their lot is about 4 feet below mine so most of the fan exhaust is into a 4 foot tall cement retaining wall. There’s also a 5 foot vinyl fence on my lot that does little to block noise. All of the ground around this HP is cement and sits on a prefab slam with just a bunch of stacked rubber washers meant to shim it level and maybe issolate it a bit. Lots of noise paths and echos. But they are really not issolation dampers at all. This model, 38MUR is reported to be quiet, 60 dB or so. But it is not really that quiet and it runs in reverse at the highest speed after each cycle to “clean the condenser”. This has been confirmed by Carrier. I’ve measured about 76 dB in this mode aimed directly at the side of the my living room wall. I had another owner of this model contact me to tell that his unit wakes him up at night evertime it ends it’s cycle with this high speed cleaning run!

I’ve also determined that the offending frequencies that get thru my wall are around 41 hz and 125 hz. Virtually nothing I can do short of rebuilding my entire dining and living room will address and block low frequency. I can hear their HP 30 feet across my house in my family room while eating or watching TV when it’s running max rpms. And it’s ecobee thermostat insures that it is no longer variable speed.

Mass loaded vinyl in the walls might help but I would need to do all of them or a another layer of dry wall sanwithching acoustic green glue. I would then also have to convert all the double pane windows to triple pane or acoustic glass. I did build a 5.5′ X 7′ cinder block wall filled with sand against the vinyl fence that only reduced the sound level in my house by about 4 dB and didn’t do much about the low frequency sound. And I knew this was not going to help with all the reflections but hoped the sand would help some with the low frequency, which it did but not enough. I even thought about extending that 4 foot retaining wall by a couple of feet but low frequency passes very easily thru concrete and in this case around as well. My Carrier 5 stage AC exhausting upward is a dream compared to this monstrosity and is only about 53 dB most of the time and never approaches much above 60 dB even running all 5 stages! I love the concept of a HP but not one placed like this one is and designed to transmit noise horizontally to nearby neighbors. Carrier and the installer say it’s not their problem and my neighbor is a bit too laid back to complain on my behalf. It’s on the other side of his laundry room so not a bother. It could have been installed about 10 feet further towards the street exhausting into my front yard and probably would have been a lot less offensive although maybe my large dining room front windows might have transmitting more of the sound.

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