Comments for Energy Vanguard

Comment on Soundproofing a Wall – The Basics by William Hullsiek

William Hullsiek — Thu, 31 Oct 2024 17:48:16 +0000

The Tamarack Return AIr Pathways are also good at reducing sound transmission with the baffle. That along with solid core doors and insulation in the wall cavities help. We also added 6″-8″ of insulation in the floor joists with our Warmboard-S install – that also helps to dampen noise from above.

Comment on Soundproofing a Wall – The Basics by Mark Hays

Mark Hays — Thu, 31 Oct 2024 17:18:26 +0000

First, your suggestions are helpful, but primarily for new construction or a deep remodel to the studs. Here are some suggestions for existing homes, apartments and office buildings:

(1) Seal all air openings: As you noted, aur leaks = sound leaks. Gaps in walls, e.g. around receptacles, will allow sound to pass through. Gaps around pipes and wiring in the ceiling create the same problem. DAP 230 is a good solution for small gaps. Use the ‘Window and Door’ version of Great Stuff foam for larger gaps. This is easier to apply and readily available, compared to acoustic rubber pads.

(2) HVAC vents: Sound travels easily through the air — including HVAC ducts and vents. Are ducts shared with a noisy neighbor? If so and if possible, seal all vents into and out of your room.

(3) Double up your drywall: As you noted, additional mass helps. There is a better way to double-up drywall, however. For walls and ceilings, mount another layer of drywall over the first one, and use DAP 230 to ‘glue’ them together. DAP sealant is flexible – which deadens sound vibrations. Apply three full tubes of DAP 230 to each 4′ x 8′ panel. This will form a flexible connection between the sheets of drywall, to attenuate sound. You can use a few screws to hold the second interior sheet in place, but remove them after DAP dries. Leave a small gap around each edge and joint — so the interior drywall sheet does not touch the floor or ceiling — and fill the gaps with DAP 230. Note: for the ceiling this requires a panel lift – and probably a contractor.

(4) Floor: Depending on how your building is constructed, noise will still be transmitted through the floor and wall joists. This is more difficult to block. DriCore panels will help on the floor. They have a rubber layer on the bottom to block moisture — which also attenuates sound. Carefully seal all of the edges and joints with DAP 230 to block air and sound leaks. Then cover the DriCore with 1″ of Foamular 250 foam board — again applying tubes of DAP 230 between the DriCore and foamboard to create a layer that will attenuate sound. Then install 3/4″ plywood for your new flooring. (Foamular 250 has 25 PSI of compressive strength, which is ideal for residential floors and concrete slabs.)

(5) Windows: New triple-pane fiberglass windows significantly reduce sound transmission. Leading manufacturers include Marvin and Andersen. Casement and awning style windows seal much more effectively than standard double-hung.

I hope this is helpful,

Comment on Soundproofing a Wall – The Basics by Walter Money

Walter Money — Thu, 31 Oct 2024 16:28:13 +0000

Allison, are the putty pads rated for use on electrical components?
Also, in my distant past as a construction supervisor I was asked to apply sound-deadening techniques to an office used by high level management officials. I began by applying 1 1/2” strips of pond rubber to the entire interior stud and plate surface, We also used rock wool insulation between the studs and door jamb gaskets and sweeps. I wanted to coat the solid core door as well, but management stepped in and said “Enough!” I guess they were happy, I got no complaints.

Comment on Soundproofing a Wall – The Basics by Charley Cormany

Charley Cormany — Thu, 31 Oct 2024 15:58:55 +0000

Good info. A couple of other tricks I learned when building a recording studio. A great product is Quiet Rock, a specialized drywall with a sound-dampening layer sandwiched in the middle. It’s expensive but easy to install and is not subject to being shorted out, a problem with the RC channel and long screws. Use acoustic caulking in the corners. Another good product is Rockwool insulation vs. fiberglass or cellulose. It is made of crushed rock and is much denser, limiting the transmission. Low frequencies are harder to cancel than mids and highs. For HVAC, use flex ducts and make at least two 90-degree bends in the run; that will cancel the sound waves, too. Good article, as usual, keep up the good work.

Comment on An Improved System for Even Faster Hot Water by andrew light

andrew light — Tue, 15 Oct 2024 13:54:18 +0000

In reply to Bret Kline. You can install a 115 volt point of use water heater and just set the thermostat a few degrees lower than the hybrid, that way it shuts off. google this for application info. BCEE88F0-33E4-4939-B03F-117E983BDE16.pdf

Comment on A Plumbing Feature Every Home Should Have by Richard Raborn MD

Richard Raborn MD — Tue, 15 Oct 2024 11:45:30 +0000

PHYN worked fine for me until I kept losing internet connection.

Comment on An Improved System for Even Faster Hot Water by Don Poindexter

Don Poindexter — Mon, 14 Oct 2024 22:03:40 +0000

In reply to Bret Kline. It’s my understanding that you aren’t supposed to pipe anything but cold water into an on demand water heater, but I could be wrong. I would contact the manufacturer first before hooking up any variation of that sort.

Comment on An Improved System for Even Faster Hot Water by Robert Jordan

Robert Jordan — Mon, 14 Oct 2024 17:16:28 +0000

Ask Stiebel-Eltron. My recollection is that I asked that question and they told me the heater would turn off when the hot water reached the on demand heater.

Comment on An Improved System for Even Faster Hot Water by Bret Kline

Bret Kline — Sun, 13 Oct 2024 15:48:05 +0000

I’m retrofitting a 1864 brick farmhouse house. I will have a 75ft run from the electric hybrid heat pump water heater in the unheated basement to a mother in-law suite with a full kitchen and bath with a shower. I was planning on running 3/4″ hot and cold pex-a water lines from the basement to the suite. To reduce the cold hot water issue, I was planning on adding a small electric on-demand hot water heater inside of the suite and plumb the 3/4″, 75ft hot water run from the basement into the on demand suite hot water heater. Is there an on-demand hot water heater that will kick on when unheated hot is flowing but turn off when the heated water from basement hybrid water heater finally reaches the on demand suite heater? Is the a good or bad idea? Will this pass code?

Comment on An Improved System for Even Faster Hot Water by Don Poindexter

Don Poindexter — Sun, 13 Oct 2024 13:44:53 +0000

Then there is always (at an obvious increased cost) the option of on demand water heaters installed at the point of use.
The wait for hot water is negligible, you don’t have a single point of failure with a single hot water heater (so with more than one bathroom you would always have one that works), and no worry of the old “flush while someone is in the shower” problem. It would decrease the amount of plumbing needed, so no heat loss along the way, fewer points to leak, and no tank problems.
Disadvantages being the increased cost, where to put the water heaters and, in my case, solar would be out of the question.
Here in Orlando, I’m keeping my solar.