Comments on: The Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap Sham – Understanding Radiant Barriers

By: Dan

Dan — Mon, 30 Jun 2014 00:07:11 +0000

I have a 1971 Mobile Home. I
I have a 1971 Mobile Home. I added cotton insulation made from Blue Jeans, advertised as a good sound barrier. Wisconsin had a darn cold winter, so I am adding 2" of pink foam for an added R-10. My Home has zero out side sheathing. I plan 5/16th particle board sheathing covered in Heavy Duty Reynolds Wrap. I am now looking for a good bubble wrap or another choice of foam. So for a good 6" wall.Sideing, yet to be chosen, Aluminum foil, aplied to 5/16th particle board, then 2" corning Foamula R-10 & between studs 3.5 of Ultra Touch Denim Insulation. Now after the tin foil clad particle board. I was think to place 3/8th shims for an air pocket that would allow convection heat to be controled as a insulating factor of it's self. As I have read, researching this insulation topic. The Denim insulation, also has the electricity wire running in & through it. I hope to change to 10 guage wire. Because that can reduce electrical costs. By reducing the draw on the wire & causing the wire jacket to heat up & subsequently having to pay Money to heat the wires in my walls. Added tip for you energy conservants.. So I think my question is? Is Bubble wrap in a thin layer like half inch or scaller worth the trouble.. Scientificly, one poster said that some static ocurred between the 2 sheets of foil. That I found very interesting. Perhaps some layered materials can be plugged into electric grid & create a cooling or heating effect at a trickle current. Orgone energy blankets cause dehidration & a cooling effect to the air. The Giza Pyramid as known to be extra dry & cool inside. Thanks for the info on Foil Faced Bubble wrap. It sound great for a Mobile Home.I'd say more,but most people keep it short.

By: Cathy

Cathy — Sun, 15 Jun 2014 02:43:51 +0000

This is first time seeking
This is first time seeking info in this manner so please bear with. I am renovating old pressure treated wood basement. Basement walls are insulated with fibreglass and vapor barrier.There is fiberglass insulation in the joist space between floor of upstairs and ceiling of basement but no vapor barrier. Very difficult space to work with. I have some foil bubble back (bubble wrap sandwiched between foil on both sides) Would there be any problems with using the foil back in this joist space as a replacement for a vapor barrier over top the fiberglass that is already there. Previous owner has just stuffed pieces of cardboard in there that don't appear to serving any real purpose.

By: Mike

Mike — Tue, 01 Apr 2014 16:26:14 +0000

It's used to prevent
It's used to prevent condensation on air conditioned duct in warm spaces , and yeah it works

By: Allison Bailes

Allison Bailes — Mon, 31 Mar 2014 14:38:51 +0000

Kevin:
Kevin: Thank you for your comment. I was wrong and have revised the article. Sorry. It's been a while since I wrote this article, but it's still true that foil-faced bubble wrap R-values are exaggerated all the time. See Martin Holladay's latest article on this topic: Stay Away from Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap.

By: Kevin

Kevin — Sun, 30 Mar 2014 18:43:22 +0000

The article you site explains
The article you site explains r, value as, "Some manufacturers of radiant barriers falsely claim that R-value measures only conductive heat flow while ignoring the other two heat-flow mechanisms, convection and radiation. In fact, R-values include all three heat-transfer mechanisms." your article contradicts this " Here's my problem with his claim. R-value is for conduction. The reduced heat flow by conduction through this product is due solely to the air trapped in the bubble wrap. That yields about an R-1. What they're trying to claim is that the reduction in heat transfer by radiation can be included in the R-value." , Perhaps you did not add this to the article, "If you want to go a little deeper, you can read Martin Holladay's article called Understanding R-Value or this Radiant Barrier Fact Sheet from Oak Ridge National Laboratory, which does a lot of good research on buildings."

By: Jonny

Jonny — Mon, 17 Mar 2014 00:40:52 +0000

Hi I wondered if – you lag
Hi I wondered if – you lag between the roof line joists with plastic fleece, then used foil bubble wrap over the top – will this be effective? I have used the fleece which has already helped with conduction, but was thinking of lagging over the top of it with this stuff to aid convection through drafts, and heat radiation. Im thinking it should be very effetive as i have created an air gap with the fleece..

By: John

John — Sat, 15 Mar 2014 20:27:46 +0000

Hi folks,

Hi folks,
I am a mechanical engineer and have some knowledge and experience under my belt(~30 years).
When many years ago I bought thermal windows the std was the distance between the panes had to be <13/16" so that air current eddies could not form and create heat transfer between them by convection.
I am now building a model to prove that the reflective properties of the two foil or electrostatically deposited metallic surface of the two outer layers will suffice in reducing the Heat Loss from one side to the other of the 2x4 wall w/o any other insulation.
I will test through winter and summer in southern AZ climate.
Int Temp @ 70 deg F and Ext Temp whatever the Lord gives me.
I will settle this discussion once and for all and myself!
If 97% Reflection means that 97% of the Heat is being Reflected Both Ways then the total Heat Loss will be nothing compared to what we pay in Heating & Cooling bills all year Long.The only problem is to make sure condensation, if any, is eliminated by adequate Flow Through Ventilation

By: gary breaux

gary breaux — Mon, 05 Nov 2012 03:16:08 +0000
Need help.Have older raised
Need help.Have older raised home in South Louisiana and remodeling.Want to insulate crawl space....What are my best and least expensive options

By: tony

tony — Sun, 14 Oct 2012 13:25:57 +0000
Thanks for the article and
Thanks for the article and discussion.

How would it work if 2x6 wall with fiberglass, on the inside surface 30mm polyurethane with foil both sides, then 30mm gap (1x4) and then drywall?

Thanks,

Tony

By: Jay

Jay — Tue, 15 May 2012 18:55:34 +0000
I used a product from a place
I used a product from a place called insulation4less called foil/foam/foil. Not bubble wrap in between, but a 1/4" of foam. I placed it on a south facing exterior wall (below the siding). The interior surface of the wall was cool to the touch when in full sun (in Arkansas), the second story wall had not yet had the Foil/Foam/Foil layer installed, and it was so hot on the interior surface it was uncomfortable to touch. Also, for fun, I had two attic duct runs to install. I did one with the standard fiberglass duct wrap, and one with the foil/foam/foil. Once the A/C was fired up, I measured the air temp at the discharge of each duct, the FFF air was cooler. I'm a firm believer in FFF.

One point to make here, R-values may or may not be relevant, especially when comparing different types of insulation. The formula is flawed as it is heavily influenced by the fiberglass industry. Other insulations like blown in cellulose perform much better in the real world, but the way R-values are calculated, they do not show that much better than fiberglass. I personally feel putting the fiberglass in the walls that had the FFF on the exterior was of minimal benefit, those wall simply never got hot so convection in the wall would be minimal (fiberglass does not stop convection, which is why I prefer cellulose)... it was amazing. The monthly cooling cost for the 1000 sq. ft. guest house is $80.