Comments on: Building Enclosures Have Improved More Than Ducts https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/ Building science knowledge, HVAC design, & fun Wed, 16 Mar 2022 11:21:50 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.2 By: Allison Bailes https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-23938 Wed, 16 Mar 2022 11:21:50 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-23938 In reply to Alexander Bell.

Good point, Andy. That table in the code (M1504.2 in the 2018 IRC) uses a set 15 feet deduction for each elbow. That 180 degree turn would take two elbows, as you say, but I’d guess the actual effect probably would be worth more than a 15 foot deduction because they didn’t make the turn gradually enough. The other problem here is that the flex isn’t pulled tight, which the IRC doesn’t address.

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By: Alexander Bell https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-23913 Wed, 16 Mar 2022 05:56:36 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-23913 If only they were correctly enforcing M1506.2 Duct Length that bath fan would have a better chance.

They’re 1/2 way with the 4 inch duct, but need to read note ‘c.’ I see a deduction of 45 + feet – 30 for the 180 and 15 for the little jog – that duct is “too long.”

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By: Marianna Lea https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-21549 Mon, 21 Feb 2022 21:38:51 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-21549 Hello Allison, I’m hoping you can point me in the right direction. I live in Denver, CO in a single family detached house, built around 1900 on a city lot. Exterior walls are 2 wythes of brick @ first Flr, brick for about 4 ft then transition to stick built for upper ext walls, then roof. Full basement, rhyolite walls on flagstone footers, about 750 sf per flr. I want to do an addition off rear (kitchen and flex space, primary bedroom and bath above, finished walkout basement below) and would really like to incorporate renewables for as much energy as possible. Because house was a somewhat neglected 3 apt. rental from the 1930’s to 1990’s, it has had very limited renovations (still knob and tube, for instance), so now is the time to upgrade all systems. I’m an interior designer so can handle most of the general design but definitely would like to hire someone (with no products to sell) to analyze and specify the best renewable HVAC system or combination of systems for this residential project, including all relevant mechanical, insulation, solar/heat pump, etc. equipment. Are there mechanical engineers specializing in residential who also have expertise in renewables, good knowledge of building science, along with experience in retrofitting older buildings? How would I go about locating such professionals? Research doesn’t scare me, but incompetency does, thus my inquiry. Thank you in advance!

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By: Scott Kutylowski https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-18525 Thu, 30 Dec 2021 23:55:28 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-18525 My kids move to Georgia a couple of years ago and purchased a new semi custom home in Barrow County. While I see attempts being made at air sealing, the builders there have along way to go with water management with regards to WRB and properly installing windows. I see poorly installed house wrap leaving oriented strand board sheeting left exposed under brick. Given all the rain you get in Georgia, I just cringe at the lack of the basic understanding of building science. I live in Arizona and production builders do a much better job with sealing the building envelope with respects to water management.

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By: Paul Szymkiewicz https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-18446 Sun, 26 Dec 2021 02:28:06 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-18446 In reply to Paul Szymkiewicz.

Eric, David lays it out for us about CFIS. And I know little to nothing about multi-family fresh air strategies, but I’d think it’s more difficult to do than single-family. Smaller volumes of living spaces, just as many people breathing, cooking, washing etc. Would ERV’s be feasible at this point? Are they even allowed to be installed on a one-per-many units basis? Commissioning those would also be crucial in order to get the correct flow rates, and I am sure the right section in ASHRAE deals with those. Curt also had a point with new construction materials drying out.

Would CO2 sensors (to control FAS) in each unit be feasible?

At this point in the conversation about your high RH readings, I’d arrange the contributing factors discussed here in the following order of influence:
1. FAS
2. Backdrafting through dryer ducts
3. Others, including new-construction materials drying out.

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By: Paul Szymkiewicz https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-18445 Sun, 26 Dec 2021 01:43:20 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-18445 In reply to MattM.

MattM, I understand your point, but stubbornly remain in the position that today’s dryers are (most of them) yesteryear’s technology, like internal combustion engines.
And so we keep trying to find excuses for their existence, such as venting. And the hickups with venting, and lint, etc. etc.

OK, coming back to earth now, from the building science perspective I understandably agree with you. However, my builder’s instincts tell me that lint will find a way to accumulate given an opportunity such as an inline damper.

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By: MattM https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-18417 Sat, 25 Dec 2021 00:01:00 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-18417 In reply to MattM.

Paul,

I’m replying here because it wouldn’t show reply to your post.

Inline backdraft dampers are available in several flavors. I most certainly would use them in the positive airflow environment of a dryer vent. They close themselves when you have negative gradients. No different than damper vents on the exterior walls. The commercial dryer vents shouldn’t have all the fibers going through them like on residential, so less prone to clogging. Besides that, you always put them in a place where you can service them if they do stop functioning.

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By: Paul Szymkiewicz https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-18396 Fri, 24 Dec 2021 03:05:08 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-18396 In reply to MattM.

Matt, backdraft blocking is a good idea, except I would not put any on a dryer vent. This whole thread should remind us how we are still hanging on to a relatively primitive method of drying cloths.

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By: David Butler https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-18369 Wed, 22 Dec 2021 16:32:24 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-18369 In reply to Paul Szymkiewicz.

@Eric, that’s a timer-based ‘central fan integrated supply’ ventilation (CFIS). Those are notorious for not being properly commissioned, and therefore often improperly sized for the attached blower. And even if installed perfectly, can lead to excess indoor RH, especially in Houston. On top of that, off-cycle operation of the HVAC blower can consume copious amounts of energy if the blower is not ECM and properly configured to operate on lowest speed during off-cycle calls. Here’s Allison’s article on CFIS.

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By: Eric B https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/building-enclosures-have-improved-more-than-ducts/#comment-18367 Wed, 22 Dec 2021 13:59:09 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6903#comment-18367 In reply to Paul Szymkiewicz.

Paul, sorry for the delay.

As explained to me, the fresh air system is ducted directly outside. There’s a controller that turns on the blower- whether havc is on or not- and draws-in fresh air based on the controller settings, and controls one damper. It seems to be strictly time-activated, unless it ties into the t-stat humidity readings; I haven’t seen any additional sensors. There’s a manual damper and an activated damper.

Dealing with the high humidity issue, I’ve experimented with the timer, dampers, turning it off entirely. My argument is we’re drawing HOUSTON AIR- you know, the super humid stuff?! Minimizing the FAS did help lower the humidity levels a few points. I don’t know what the long-term effects of this will be… I guess it’s there for a reason : /

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