https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/ Building science knowledge, HVAC design, & fun Sun, 07 Nov 2021 15:40:19 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.2 https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2813 Thu, 07 Aug 2014 21:08:39 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2813 Hi Jo 

Hi Jo 
Here in S Florida I’m wrestling with the same issue, having to replace existing blown in fiberglass due to past rodent infestation. Spray is not such a great idea altho it was my choice in the past ‘up North’ due to possibility of termites getting in under. Also possible slight offgassing chances. 
Cellulose I know is very dusty but its pretty inert and if the main fire retardant is borax, that is not a health danger. Fiberglass looks easier to deal with BUT what are the long term effects of all those tiny fibers ? Wish blown in rockwool was available.

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2812 Tue, 25 Mar 2014 05:30:22 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2812 Blown in cellulose or blown
Blown in cellulose or blown in fiberglass? Which makes the most mess to clean up, either during installation or afterwards? Husband, toddler granddaughter and I all have allergies so we are concerned about residual dust/allergens.

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2811 Thu, 30 Jan 2014 03:51:41 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2811 Considering blown-in
Considering blown-in cellulose or spray foam. Besides cost…what are the health implications of both (I have 2 toddlers at home, both with bedrooms directly under attic)… Cellulose deterioration over time and/or chemicals in air from that an issue? Spray foam chemicals an issue besides the 1-2 days after install (dissipates quickly & almost entirely?)? I also hear cellulose is not fun to get through when replacing air handlers in attic or trying to navigate the attic in general?

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2810 Mon, 10 Dec 2012 13:17:05 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2810 @Tony, I have no idea where
@Tony, I have no idea where you live or how much your heating and cooling bills have been running, but $700/yr savings sounds a bit high.  
 
Strictly from an R-value standpoint, increasing R18 to R49 will reduce ceiling conducted load about 60%. Let’s say you spend $2500/yr for heat/cool and the ceiling represents 20% of that, then you’d expect to see a savings of $300. If infiltration represents 30% of your load and sealing your top plates reduces that by 20%, then you’d expect to save another $150. These are just guesstimates but it gives you an idea of how to scope the savings.  
 
If the auditor didn’t model your home and true up the model to historical energy bills, then I wouldn’t put much credence in his savings estimate.  
 
That said, I do recommend having the work done, but be sure to get another quote to make sure you’re not overpaying.

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2809 Sat, 08 Dec 2012 01:06:45 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2809 Hey guys, I have a question.
Hey guys, I have a question. I just had an energy audit from a company that our state and utilities contract with. The conclusions in the audit recommended that they blow in cellulose and do air sealing of all the top plates to bring our R value from 18 up to 49. They also will barricade our attic pulldown and add a battic door. The total for the job is about $2,700, $2,500 of which can be financed for 3 years at 0% through the state. It is estimated this work will save us over $700/year in heating and cooling costs based on our usage history. Any thoughts?

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2808 Tue, 25 Sep 2012 20:39:43 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2808 Great post. Keep in mind that
Great post. Keep in mind that when you do decide to add additional insulation, each area has a specific recommended depth. A great place to find additional information is http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2807 Mon, 20 Aug 2012 02:49:01 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2807 hmm
hmm

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2806 Sun, 26 Feb 2012 00:17:32 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2806 Paul wrote: 
Paul wrote: 
> I have had a number of people out to look at the problem… 
 
Were any of these trained auditors who weren’t there primarily to sell products? In particular, did you pay for an comprehensive energy audit? Without prejudice, a free audit is worth every penny you pay for it. 
 
A skilled auditor with blower door, IR camera and a few other tools could have tested and diagnosed your home in order to reveal the issues with your envelope, in particular, the precise source of the ‘breeze’ you’re experiencing. Then, software modeling can help you focus resources on improvements that will provide the best value.  
 
Given the amount you’ve already spent, you would do well to spend a few hundred dollars to have an auditor identify the source of the drafts you’re feeling, using a blower door and IR camera. 
 
BTW, you didn’t mention your location, but adding more inches of cellulose to the attic that already has 12 inches isn’t going to help much. But you do need to need to fill in the low spots.  
 
I don’t understand your last question, but if you have knee-walls exposed to a vented attic, those definitely need to be air sealed, and fully encapsulated (e.g, six-sided enclosure of each stud bay). Insulation in a knee-wall that’s exposed on the back (or top, or bottom) won’t work very well.

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2805 Sat, 25 Feb 2012 20:05:35 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2805 Wow I see I could use a
Wow I see I could use a typing lesson with any money I may save from the above. Hopefully every one can read over my typos.

]]> https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/batts-blown-or-sprayed-what-s-the-best-attic-insulation/#comment-2804 Sat, 25 Feb 2012 19:59:28 +0000 http://energyvanguard.flywheelsites.com/?blog_post=batts-blown-or-sprayed-whats-the-best-attic-insulation#comment-2804 Thanks for the article it was
Thanks for the article it was of great help. But I do have a question for anyone out there. I bought a older home 20 years ago and it always seem cold so I had somone gut it and add 3 1/2″ of faced insolation in the walls and covered it with 1/2″ drywall it did not help I then had the siding removed and installed 1/2″ foil face sheating and new siding again did not help I then chaulked all around the bottom of the foil sheating on the outside of the house and all around the bottom of the drywall on the inside again did not help last year I installed new windows triple pane with storms on the outside this help some but still could feel a breeze 
 
just last week I had a new top of the line furnace installed along with a complete duct work make over and it is now much better but can still feel that breeze. I have sealed the tops of the basement walls and insolated the sill boxes and the breeze continues my next thought is to add 10″ of insolation to my one attic it is batts now but only 5 1/2″ my other attic has about 12″ of cellulose with some areas only about 4″ thick due I think to some electrical work that was done in there I am was told to blow in another 12″ to get an R value of about 49 Does this soulnd like a good idea? I am also wondering if I should somehow seal the outside wall areas between the studs in the attic although I have not yet looked I got a feeling that the batts in the walls maybe puckered the areas for cold area to come down the walls from the attic does seam like a good idea or is there a better option? With spending $25000.00 dollars in the last 2 yrs. to fix this problem all I seem to be gaining is getting new and update top of the line products. I have had a number of people out to look at the problem but had any answers. My attics by the have both gable vents and roof vents. Any suggestion are greatly appreciated.

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