Wraptite

Permatherm Galvalume SIPs do not experience the same inherent issues as OSB, they are rot and insect resistant, impervious to moisture , higher density closed cell EPS . Stable against warping, swelling and shrinkage. Underwriter Laboratory certified green -No Off-gassing

Ken, excellent anecdotes! Just looked up this 10-year old article: https://www.wbpionline.com/features/mdi-a-simple-equation-for-osb-production/

Charles, will look you up, thanks!

Thank you Paul!
Very helpful links.
Les

Hello Paul – Eco-Panels manufactures structural insulated panels using both plywood and Huber ZIP System sheathing, as well as Advantech, arauco and other more water resistant wood based materials. We have factories both in North Carolina and Tennessee.

Les, maybe try some of these contacts, which might lead to others…

https://www.sips.org/member-directory?country=US&region=IN

Good morning. That’s a tough one sir, but as the old quote says, perhaps “the answer lies within…”. I believe the problem you are having is that moisture on the interior of the home is finding gaps/cracks in your ceiling, rising through the T&G decking and into the panels. What you really need to do is pull down the interior T&G and seal the interior joints. My panel company (Eco-Panels out of NC) requires that sealing occur not just at the exterior of the house, but also at the interior. Ideally a vapor impermeable membrane at the interior, and vapor permeable at the exterior. Most often our clients lay down T&G decking on top of beams, and then lay across that a membrane, and THEN put the panels down. If doing your way, then we would say apply permanent sealants at all the panel joints from the interior and then put back your T&G, careful not to put nails through the sealant seams. If you have an EPS panel roof, the challenge with that type of panel is that many manufacturers make a low density foam panel – 0.9 lb density (they call “one pound” density) – and it’s actually quite vapor permeable, so sealing more from the exterior only locks in that trapped moisture. Once you have done your interior sealing job, let it dry to the exterior if it can, and if it is allowed to (i.e. you don’t have metal in direct contact with the OSB skin of the panels and your upper WRB is vapor permeable), then that MAY fix the issue entirely. This of course assumes that you do not have any leaks in the roof. We do wish you good luck with fixing this issue! And sorry I do not know any install crews in that region.

(January 26, 2024) Our 1988 SIP-clad timber frame salt-box house is just this year “breaking out” with many condensation leaks through the roof. The interior of the ceiling is boxcar pine siding back-screwed into the underside of the SIP roof panels.
Just 7 years ago we re-roofed our metal roof with a newer snap-over standing seam metal roof, but we were unaware we should have had the contractor check and reseal all SIP panel seams up there. They used a standard moisture barrier fabric and applied the new metal on top without inspecting/restoring any panel seams (I guess that was “our bad”).
We’d appreciate any/all recommendations on contractors who could be hired to remove the current metal roof and replace it after repairing any/all SIP seams above. We are in Muncie, Indiana. We are willing to hire a contractor who has to travel to our project in order to make sure we are working with a specialist in SIP roof repair. Les 765-749-4221