Sorry that is MXZ, not MKZ. I didn’t see a way to edit.

Thank you so much for the reply. I was quoted for an MKZ 4 ton for 1945 square foot single story home with a single blower in my utility room replacing my gas furnace that currently resides there. Would I be better off with the SVZ/SUZ combo?

Michael: 1:1 means each outdoor unit is matched with one and only one indoor unit. The setup I have now is a 1:2 (or 2:1) with 2 indoor units on the same outdoor unit. The SUZ is a 1:1 outdoor unit. It was not available with Hyper-Heat for my system when I got it in 2019. It’s available now. The advantage is better efficiency and better control of indoor temperatures.

I have been researching the Hyper Heat for a month or so. Why would you have gone with the SUZ over the MXZ?
Forgive me but I am not clear what 1:1 means.

Eric –
I am currently designing a 3500 sf home in the Hamilton area. I had one HVAC designer tell me that a minisplit system would not have enough power to heat my house. I read your comment with interest because it appears that the Mitsubishi system you have works just fine. Is the system still working for you? Would you recommend some form of supplemental heat?

No, I haven’t measured that, but I’m sure it’s not much. For one thing, it’s in the basement, which has little sensible cooling load. For another, we don’t run it enough to get a lot of cooling or dehumidification from it.

If your glass is 20 years old, its already way behind what new stuff can do. I swapped out 33 year old andersen low e and low e sunglass from 33 years ago, just the sashes, the frames and everything are still fine, 33 units in total about $12,500 for all the sashes, all casement..BIG improvement front of house gets blasted with intense sun at 3 PM in the summer..new Low e 4 SUNGLASS by Andersen(Cardinal glass actually) is a better color blue grey than the older bronze, room is brighter and whiter, and less glare and less heat than the old sunglass, plus the argon does go away over the years, so in 20 years there really is no argon left….and the new low e 4 glass has a titanium coating outside to keep it cleaner..and the new casement sashes have desiccant now in the thermal edges ..always improving. The new Andersen SUNGLASS is much better, I did all sunglass this time, I like the privacy it does in the back sun room, clear looking from inside, but a nice dark tinge, looking in from outside, can’t see me, and the 8 foot andersen slider is all new Sunnglass, that side got blasted with sun in the moring E rising, magic, don’t feel anything, open the door WHAM, you feel that sun, technology in thin coatings, look up cardinal glass, lots of interesting glass facts, if your glass is over 20 years, it’s obsolete. My 5 Mitsubishis mini splits heat and cool the entire house in every season NEVER need the furnace to come on when it’s 5 degrees outside,they are actually rated to -15 F to give like 60% full heat, amazing stuff they are fantastic…newer ones again, are even BETTER my newest one is no 3 years old, already they have a more efficient, better in colder air…Mitsubishi teamed with trane now…Mitsubishi mini splits are the best of any out there. I did all the sashes myself, easy on casements, get some new straps from andersen, for the non operating ones, the operating ones you reuse all the original hardware,stuff is fine order from http://www.windowparts.com no shipping charges for 33 sashes is pretty cool, everyone arrived in perfect shape, directly from the Andersen warehouse, use the Andersen part number on the screen tells you which window size you have, not one mistake perfect ..they order sunglass as special order, since it’s not regularly used in the northeast, came in 2 weeks or less,I did it in 3 orders cus I wouldn’t have had space for 33 casement sashes. And my roof is now Owens corning premium duration with heat reflective granules 50 year roof, new glass and hardie board siding, factory baked on paint 30 years warranty on material, 15 year warranty on the paint, get a hardie Board elite installer, they know what they are doing, that stuff is HEAVY!

The biggest reason I didn’t go with a 12k mini is the necessity for zoned air distribution, especially for basement vs main level. I haven’t been impressed with efforts to zone ducted mini’s, and my room loads are waay too small to use a multi-split (also, 2-pipe air-source multi-splits give up too much in efficiency).

So how are you managing air distribution with a single system servicing 4,000 ft2?