Comments on: The 3 Safest Ways to Insulate the Top of the House https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/ Building science knowledge, HVAC design, & fun Tue, 17 Aug 2021 23:04:11 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.2 By: Danny Gough https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16410 Tue, 17 Aug 2021 23:04:11 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16410 Allison,
Kohta says in Option 2 , “ You can use either rigid foam or mineral wool on top of the roof deck.”.

How does that work logistically to provide a nail base for shingles? If you laid Rock Wool board on top of the roof deck, you would still need solid material for shingles. That’s likely more heroic than more $$ for spray foam option. Although I surely like the idea better.

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By: LeeH https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16408 Tue, 17 Aug 2021 21:04:18 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16408 The vented attic was a “no brainer” for me. With a 9/12 roof in CZ5, I would have had to installed 25% more insulation at R75 to equal the R60 cellulose on the attic floor. The cellulose was so inexpensive I didn’t even get quotes on the CCSF.

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By: David Butler https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16404 Tue, 17 Aug 2021 17:05:20 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16404 In reply to Brian Langston.

@Brian, the issue with flash-and-batt in open rafter cavities is gravity. In order to perform properly, the batts must maintain good contact with the spray foam.

As it turns out, that’s pretty difficult to do without compressing the batts (keep in mind, the insulation will protrude well beyond the rafters). I would say impossible to do, but I recall seeing pictures of a beautifully done attic that involved a wire grid with stand-offs. The flash layer was done professionally but I think the R-30 unfaced batts+retaining grid was a DIY project. In a production environment, I think the labor would offset the savings over simply adding the equivalent R-value of open cell spray foam.

Knauf’s sprayed-on fiberglass product (Spider, requires no netting) used to be approved for this application but several years ago, they eliminated the glue from the recipe. Spider is now only suitable for wall cavities, according to the manufacturer.

I’d be curious to know if someone has come up with a cost-effective flash-and-batt system using mineral wool batts.

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By: Brian Langston https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16369 Mon, 16 Aug 2021 00:53:46 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16369 Allison, I know you didn’t list ‘flash and batt’ here – but was curious – if I have closed cell spray foam on my entire house – walls and roof deck, is there any issue with adding batts of rockwool to achieve a higher R-value? Typically flash and batt is only an inch I think of closed cell, so I wouldn’t think there would be an issue if I had more. I figured it may be more cost effective than adding more spray foam. Granted, the walls aren’t going to be an option, but most of the roof deck is accessible and I figured you can never have enough insulation so why not? Is there anything I am missing that I am missing that could make this a bad idea other than cost?

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By: Deniz Erkan https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16323 Thu, 12 Aug 2021 20:48:36 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16323 ” contractor friends out West do this a lot”

I think knowledgeable contractors must be doing this a lot, but there are not a lot of knowledgeable contractors that are easy to find for an average homeowner, at least not in southern CA. There doesn’t seem to be a way to know short of interviewing them, which is a problem if you want to get value out of any energy efficiency project.

Most recently for an air sealing project the responses ranged from “we don’t do that” to “that’s unnecessary… don’t believe everything you read online” to “what do you mean by air sealing”

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By: Dan Geist https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16301 Wed, 11 Aug 2021 00:16:57 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16301 In reply to framistat.

I’ll let Allison quote the exact study, but essentially closed cell foam impacts heat retention in the shingles less than both the direction/pitch of the deck and also the color of the shingle. Does insulating them make the temp go higher? Yes, but not as much as coloring them black and aiming them south.

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By: Quincy Fivelos https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16295 Tue, 10 Aug 2021 16:10:29 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16295 In a cold/snow environment… With CCSF on the underside you have to make sure to fully encapsulate the rafters or top cords of trusses quite well. Otherwise the amount of thermal bridging through them can be quite significant resulting in; melt lines along each leading to ice ridges and lifting of shingles along the edges of the melt lines and ice dams and leakage in to the attic at the bottoms of the melt lines.

The CCSF photo in the article would be exceptionally poor construction in a cold/snow environment.

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By: framistat https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16294 Tue, 10 Aug 2021 15:26:10 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16294 My experience as a homeowner in upstate NY, had a vented attic in my ranch home airsealed and insulated with (shorted) blown cellulose under an Assisted Home Performance with Energy Star. The contractor didn’t evaluate the roof or attic venting properly. The home had been neglected for years prior to my purchase; no ridge vent, a single gable vent on either side of a central cathedral ceiling (so very little flow) and the soffit vents (maybe 4×10? every 4 ft or so) were nearly completely plugged with mouse droppings. The roof shingles were racked (bad insurance job after tree damage) and leaked at some penetrations, eg antenna anchors. Result: condensation and mold that deteriorated the sheathing so much the roof was soft to walk on. So it wasn’t failure to airseal and insulate, it was failure to ventilate. Now with the gable vents sealed, continuous snow rated ridge vent, Smart Baffles, and completely open soffits, new roof and sheathing, the attic is finally performing as it should. But no homeowner should be put through this. The amount of effort required to diagnose the problems, find solutions, find and vet contractors and negotiate contracts to get the work done properly was overwhelming.

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By: Allison Bailes https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16293 Tue, 10 Aug 2021 14:28:26 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16293 In reply to William Powers.

William, yes, the difference is that in a humid climate, you have to control humidity in attics encapsulated with open-cell spray foam. Here are some articles I wrote about that:

Humidity in a Spray Foam Attic

High Humidity in a Spray Foam Attic, Part 2

Can an Exhaust Fan Control Humidity in a Spray Foam Attic?

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By: William Powers https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/the-3-safest-ways-to-insulate-the-top-of-the-house/#comment-16292 Tue, 10 Aug 2021 14:18:23 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=6318#comment-16292 You mentioned that you have open cell SPF in your home which requires extra care during installation.

Could you please comment on what that difference in care is?

(Perhaps you have a past blog article on the subject of open cell vs. closed cell for attic insulation that you could provide as a link.)

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