I installed the Emporia Vue to monitor the HVAC (and 14 other loads). One thing that you may not have noticed is you can adjust the multiplier of individual circuit voltages to get a more accurate wattage reading from the CT’s.
I took actual amperage and voltage readings on the circuits and adjusted them accordingly. I know it’s not really necessary to have precise readings but why not.
Anyway, if you feel the water heaters are correct you could adjust the Emporia circuits to more closely match them.

We have a semi-conditioned area where our HPWH is located, and plan to move it to the garage and seal off that connection with a door. Living in Arizona, we benefit from using the heat available in the space for water heating, plus cooling the space for other purposes. No need to duct it elsewhere, although I do plan to install a “high intake” duct when I move it to the garage, to get maximum heat input before spreading the cooler air into the garage in general, and I will also seal off the otherwise semi-conditioned space for use as my hobby area (model trains, that is). Keeping the adjacent occupied areas from being exposed to excess heat (vs. the desired in-house temperature), even with insulated walls, is a good thing where we live.

I’ve seen heat pump hot water heaters that were ducted to function as some chilling and dehumidification. Back in about 2013 at one of the DOE Solar Decathlons in Irving California. Several of the teams had used the GE GEOSPRING heat pump with an “optional” duct kit that allowed air to be brought in from outside the “closet’ and returned elsewhere. Typically the students would put the heatpump and ducting in same room with ERV.

I guess my power consumptions its all that high when you take into account we do not conserve power by going to extremes. I would like to get a HPWH and new windows though. I need to finish my rim joist insulation also.

That brick veneer may help or hurt more then you think. I havent seen any actual studies on heat retention other then people saying “it hold heat very well.” I have a brick house and I’ll tell you right now that during the summer my max heating load is still 2-4 hours AFTER the daily max OD temp. Even on cooler summer days of say 80F degrees my brink is still a sweltering 130F. House built in 1972 and walls are R11 or R14 at best.

How about oil return? IDK exactly how your unit works but my Daikin Fit will spin up to max compressor speed for oil return. IDK how often it happens but I feel like I see it more with heating. I’m unsure how much power it actually pulls but if it had to run more on certain days that might account for that. My Daikin Fit apparently cycles the compressor a little bit during cooling, possibly heating. I haven’t witnessed it but supposedly it goes through a few cycles an hour? Maybe that has to do with dehumidification.

I have heard of that Steve. Some makers have duct kit connections so you can deliver the air to a specific area. But one issue is that you may not want cool air delivered to that space in the winter, so you may have to rig up a diverting damper to deliver that cool air to another area for part of the year.

That would typically be lighting loads, (LEDs right), ceiling fans, range hoods, bathroom fans, perhaps heated bathroom floor, TV, stereo…

Years ago when my wife and I cataloged and traced down all the loads, we went as far as counting GFCI (about 0.5W for some), smart light switches (sometimes 0.25 – 0.5W for them), but the big swinger was the coffee pot. Clear glass pot, that we’d brew coffee in the morning and keep warm until about noon. That was somewhere between a 250W and 300W load continuously… the boiling element is the same as the warming element.. just cycling more).

Outdoor landscaping… some of the highlights are 7W each… if they are incandescent.