Comments on: Soundproofing a Wall – The Basics https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/soundproofing-a-wall-the-basics/ Building science knowledge, HVAC design, & fun Thu, 31 Oct 2024 17:48:16 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.2 By: William Hullsiek https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/soundproofing-a-wall-the-basics/#comment-44995 Thu, 31 Oct 2024 17:48:16 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=9257#comment-44995 The Tamarack Return AIr Pathways are also good at reducing sound transmission with the baffle. That along with solid core doors and insulation in the wall cavities help. We also added 6″-8″ of insulation in the floor joists with our Warmboard-S install – that also helps to dampen noise from above.

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By: Mark Hays https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/soundproofing-a-wall-the-basics/#comment-44994 Thu, 31 Oct 2024 17:18:26 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=9257#comment-44994 First, your suggestions are helpful, but primarily for new construction or a deep remodel to the studs. Here are some suggestions for existing homes, apartments and office buildings:

(1) Seal all air openings: As you noted, aur leaks = sound leaks. Gaps in walls, e.g. around receptacles, will allow sound to pass through. Gaps around pipes and wiring in the ceiling create the same problem. DAP 230 is a good solution for small gaps. Use the ‘Window and Door’ version of Great Stuff foam for larger gaps. This is easier to apply and readily available, compared to acoustic rubber pads.

(2) HVAC vents: Sound travels easily through the air — including HVAC ducts and vents. Are ducts shared with a noisy neighbor? If so and if possible, seal all vents into and out of your room.

(3) Double up your drywall: As you noted, additional mass helps. There is a better way to double-up drywall, however. For walls and ceilings, mount another layer of drywall over the first one, and use DAP 230 to ‘glue’ them together. DAP sealant is flexible – which deadens sound vibrations. Apply three full tubes of DAP 230 to each 4′ x 8′ panel. This will form a flexible connection between the sheets of drywall, to attenuate sound. You can use a few screws to hold the second interior sheet in place, but remove them after DAP dries. Leave a small gap around each edge and joint — so the interior drywall sheet does not touch the floor or ceiling — and fill the gaps with DAP 230. Note: for the ceiling this requires a panel lift – and probably a contractor.

(4) Floor: Depending on how your building is constructed, noise will still be transmitted through the floor and wall joists. This is more difficult to block. DriCore panels will help on the floor. They have a rubber layer on the bottom to block moisture — which also attenuates sound. Carefully seal all of the edges and joints with DAP 230 to block air and sound leaks. Then cover the DriCore with 1″ of Foamular 250 foam board — again applying tubes of DAP 230 between the DriCore and foamboard to create a layer that will attenuate sound. Then install 3/4″ plywood for your new flooring. (Foamular 250 has 25 PSI of compressive strength, which is ideal for residential floors and concrete slabs.)

(5) Windows: New triple-pane fiberglass windows significantly reduce sound transmission. Leading manufacturers include Marvin and Andersen. Casement and awning style windows seal much more effectively than standard double-hung.

I hope this is helpful,

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By: Walter Money https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/soundproofing-a-wall-the-basics/#comment-44993 Thu, 31 Oct 2024 16:28:13 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=9257#comment-44993 Allison, are the putty pads rated for use on electrical components?
Also, in my distant past as a construction supervisor I was asked to apply sound-deadening techniques to an office used by high level management officials. I began by applying 1 1/2” strips of pond rubber to the entire interior stud and plate surface, We also used rock wool insulation between the studs and door jamb gaskets and sweeps. I wanted to coat the solid core door as well, but management stepped in and said “Enough!” I guess they were happy, I got no complaints.

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By: Charley Cormany https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/soundproofing-a-wall-the-basics/#comment-44992 Thu, 31 Oct 2024 15:58:55 +0000 https://www.energyvanguard.com/?p=9257#comment-44992 Good info. A couple of other tricks I learned when building a recording studio. A great product is Quiet Rock, a specialized drywall with a sound-dampening layer sandwiched in the middle. It’s expensive but easy to install and is not subject to being shorted out, a problem with the RC channel and long screws. Use acoustic caulking in the corners. Another good product is Rockwool insulation vs. fiberglass or cellulose. It is made of crushed rock and is much denser, limiting the transmission. Low frequencies are harder to cancel than mids and highs. For HVAC, use flex ducts and make at least two 90-degree bends in the run; that will cancel the sound waves, too. Good article, as usual, keep up the good work.

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